diy kylo ren hood and surcoat tutorial

I'm not going to start this tutorial with any word resembling, simple... it wasn't. I thought it was going to be. But it wasn't. I can help make it simpler for you though! Now that I know what not to do. This tutorial is for Kylo Ren's Surcoat with attached hood and scarf pieces. It will fit a tween/small teen. Please adjust length and width as necessary for whomever you're making this for.

• 6.5 yards monks cloth. Please, Please, Please try to order it in BLACK. Oh my gosh. ((You can purchase black through fabrics.com!!)) I couldn't get black anywhere at the time I was making this and that was the MAJOR obstacle in my project. If you can't get black, buy the natural cotton and skip trying to dye it. I dyed it multiple times with several different brands and types of fabric dye and couldn't get it darker than gray. If you end up buying natural monks cloth wait until the very end and use Tulip fabric spray paint. Worked great! You will need to wash it prior to wearing it because the spray is tacky and stiff until laundered.
• Tulip fabric spray paint (about 6 cans) if you buy natural monks cloth. I actually picked this up at Walmart in the craft department.
• Black thread, scissors, pins. 
• It will really help if you have a dress form or manikin... or a patient kid to try it on. 
• an old sheet.
• a belt
• a sewing machine

Directions:

surcoat

1. First you need to cut your pattern for the main surcoat from a flat sheet. I believe I used a twin sized sheet. You may need to add length to your pattern. Make any modifications needed and then use the sheet as your pattern and cut from monks cloth. This piece does not have sleeves! We just wore a long sleeve black shirt beneath. If you can't find a shirt with enough pleats or creases for your liking you can purchase extra monks cloth and create sleeves by pleating a rectangle and sewing the pleats in place. Then simply cover your long sleeves with your pleated rectangle. Stitch to your shirt sleeves at the inner seam, shoulder, and wrist, cutting away any excess fabric. If you can, fold under edges before sewing so it looks nice. 

• Fold the sheet lengthwise. The fold will be the center. The back is wider than the front for swing and movement when worn. I used the entire length of sheet. 
• I first cut the outline of the front and back. 
• I cut a slit up the center in the front to separate the "legs".
• Now fold the sheet width wise and cut out the hole for the head. When you cut the actual costume you will also cut a slit at the back of the neck. 
• Please use the images for shape reference while cutting your pattern.

Measurements: 

length: approximately 90 inches

back width: Folded: 28 inches Open: 56 inches

front width: Folded: 17.5 inches Open 35 inches (split into two 17.5 inch "legs")

Front legs crotch to hem: 25 inches (just cut straight up the fold in the front 25 inches)

Head hole: approximately 4 inches cut in the center 

1. Cut your pattern out of the Monks Cloth. Fold the fabric just as you folded the sheet.
2. Cut a slit about four inches long at the back side of the neck opening (so you can get your head through and don't have to install a zipper - high five!)
3. Fold under the side edges about 1/2 an inch and sew with a straight stitch. The sides remain open. 
4. Fold under and sew the front leg opening in the same way.
5. Fold under and sew the hem in the front and back.
6. At the neck hole just use a straight stitch around the opening to hold the fabric from being pulled out of shape. It's a stay stitch. I sewed at 1/4 inch and again at 1/2 an inch in from the raw edge.

Hood

1. I used a regular hood pattern that I already had on hand. It isn't exactly like Kylo Ren's hood but it works fine for a costume. 

1. Cut 4 out of your Monks Cloth. Two will make the outer hood and two will make the inner lining. 
2. Sew the first two together along the back with 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch seam allowance.
3. Repeat with the second set.
4. trim the seam with pinking shears if you have them or notch the main curve.
5. With right sides together, using the same seam allowance, sew the inner and outer hood together along the front seam.
6. turn right side out.
7. Topstich the front edge so that it lays nicely.
8. baste the raw neck edges together. 

scarf

Here's the part of the tutorial where you convince yourself you've got this and, as they say, hand someone your beer. As to say, holy shit, this part gets crazy! Don't let your beer holder get too far out of reach. You'll need it! Now don't freak out but you're going to have to wing it. I didn't lay down any kind of pattern here. I watched a video by an amazing maker on youtube named Dawn Bright who has by far my favorite Kylo Ren costume. This gal is a pro! I didn't need to be perfect since I was just making a kids Halloween costume but I did get tons of inspiration from her videos AND modeled my scarf off of her tutorial.  

Go watch it and then come back to me.

• So, you'll have to trust yourself to be able to cut a hole in a big wad of fabric okay? okay! After I gathered and hand sewed the scarf into the shape I liked, I went back in with the scissors and hacked out (freeform) large triangle pieces from areas that wouldn't really show. BECAUSE this is HEAVY and I was making it for a kid to trick or treat in. I was seriously concerned that he would get force choked in the darn thing! 
• I also used my serger to close the edges on some of the scarf and used a basic straight stitch on some areas to create a good fray where I wanted it. 
• I also stay stitched the neck and keyhole slit on this piece just as I did on the surcoat. 

Now, you have your scarf. You have your surcoat. You have your hood. How about your sanity? Yes? In check? Alright. I have excellent news. You're almost complete! 

Assembly

1. Place the scarf over the surcoat matching the neck and keyhole slit as closely as possible. Sew together.
2. Position the hood onto the main piece. You're only going to sew the front few inches down. The back will stay open so you can get it on and off while all sewn together. The hood needs to be started at about the collar bone area. Essentially in front of your neck and not at the shoulder or behind. You're going to sew it right sides together so that when your hood goes up the seam is inside and the hood has a nice scoop shape to it.
3. Clean up any seams you need to.
4. Add a belt. We just used a piece of faux leather for the photo's but you can get as creative as you want or use a regular belt.

You did it! The force is with you! Please let me know if you need any help with the pattern!

xoxo Jenny